Sunday 25 September 2022

Summary in Sarzana





The Via Francigena (red and white markers) meet the Via della Costa (two directional arrows) at the Cathedral in Sarzana. A photo of the Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta for the record, there's nobody at home to register the journey.

Pisa is my next destination but this is where the real 'pilgrimage' journey ends. Connecting the Camino de Santiago with the Via Francigena. Arles was the 'moment of truth' town for mediaeval pilgrims arriving from Central Europe. West to Santiago de Compostela or East to Rome. 

My itinerary was set before I left home.

Pilgrimage routes:
Camino Francés/Chemin d'Arles in France
Via Aurelia in France
Via della Costa in Italy
Via Francigena in Italy

Roman roads:
Via Tolosana
Via Aurelia

On the very flat plain to Pisa in Luni what's left of a 7,000 capacity amphitheatre remains isolated fron the modern world. A young man provides an entry ticket costing 1Euro.

Rain becomes torrential by the time I arrive in Pisa. My cardboard bike box is ready at the bike rental shop. The dismantled bike and soaking gear is bundled in. The cycling is over.

Sandra is flying into Pisa and we will spend time in Florence. 



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Friday 23 September 2022

Sarzana on the Via Francigena

Climbing inland with no coastal road to follow the Via della Costa merges with the Via Francigena here in Sarzana.  Walking pligrims sometimes stay at this Albergo La Villetta and this once walled town has an impressive indestructible looking castle. 







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Thursday 22 September 2022

Chiavari in Liguria

Land masses continue to merge into the Mediterranean Ligurian Sea, no longer the Maritime Alps but the Appenine mountain range stretching from here down the long length of the peninsular of Italy. Italy's backbone which is a term I remember from school days. Drammatic landscapes with breezes off the sea sometimes switching from one direction to the other. Making distance is slow following every inlet but the modern day road and rail services have evened out connections between coastal towns. Many tunnels but still challenging. 

Chiavari is in Liguria which encompasses the Italian Riviera and has a truly Rennaissance style historic centre with many collonaded walkways perfect for ristorantes/tratorias to spill out into. The Citadella is a classic Rennaissance palace.

The sea front provides a wonderful view of the sun going down late afternoon.





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Wednesday 21 September 2022

Genoa


A yellow arrow pointing in two directions is a small but significant motivator. This is the road to Rome or Santiago according to which arrow head you follow. This is the Via della Costa. 

The coastal road continues and long sections of cycle path are well used. The Italian Riviera is equal if not better in that respect to the French. A happy surprise.















Genoa is a major port and the city has developed around the deep water harbours. Historic narrow streets and more widely ugly industrial areas and decaying transport structures. It's not a fairytale city and has a grimey edge about it. A replica 17th century galleon is one of the few things of immediate interest.....









Manfred and Gabbi head inland towards Switzerland and eventually their home in Germany. 





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Spotorno on the Via della Costa

Sanremo, an important destination on the Italian Riviera,  missed the influx of International visitors seen on the French coast. Supermarket prices substantially lower than in France.  The Italian resorts are less perfect but have a relaxed charm about them and the importance of the Catholic faith is more noticeable with churches prominently placed in every small town.

Frank from Germany wheeling his gear to Genoa spends his life on the road. He plans to continue east to Asia. His wife returned home recently but will rejoin him soon. The trolley will get heavier.

Twisting and turning along the coastline, in and out of tunnels which conveniently cut through unpassable rock faces, down and up from seashore towns. Sharing road with busy traffic as opposed to mountainous roads inland. Flatter sections picking up on the Via Aurelia which without tunneling crossed inland at higher elevations. Romans clearly preferred to go over rather than through rock outcrops. The Maritime Alps loom in the background as the range merges with the Appennines in the vicinity of Genoa.

Spotorno overnight is a restful small town and the local restaurants serve much seafood. Even on pizzas.


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Tuesday 20 September 2022

Nice to Sanremo in Italy






The Côte d'Azure is stunning with mountains rising from coastal towns. Monaco's Monte Carlo Casino a focal point. 

Routing along the French Via Aurelia finishes on the border with Italy and now shadows the Via Della Costa. Italy's Sanremo seems a litte tired in comparison with the wealth displayed on the French Riviera. 

The pilgrimage journey from Arles to Rome is somewhat lost in the intense traffic and opulence surrounding the French Riviera. 

Of course the Via della Costa has only just begun in Catholic Italy.

Sunday 18 September 2022

Another Nice day of sunshine

Mountain peaks in distant Alpes-Maritimes visible from the Castel above Nice, canon boom at midday, the Promenade des Anglais constructed from remnants of the old castel which blew itself up (gunpowder store ignited) and the Sewer Bank Heist make Nice more interesting than just a destination with over 300 days of sunshine each year.

The Palais de Justice photographed displaying French colours was the scene of Spaggiari, mastermind of the Bank heist and in custody after being ratted on by a gang member's girlfriend, jumping from the upper floor, softening his landing on a car bonnet, scrambling onto the back of a motorbike and making off with his accomplice. They made a film of it and he's s bit of a folklore hero. The gang tunnelled into the vaults from the sewers below and got away with 40 million.

It's a deafening bang at 12 midday all started off by a a Scotsman Thomas Coventry in 1861 who started firing a canon at middday. The French liked it and after he left Nice with his canon the tradition started up again using pyrotechnics. Only on Bastille Day is it quiet and on April Fool's Day purposely sounded at the wrong time. Nice touch!





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